Tuesday, November 16 Rest Day in Hoi An

Paddy will add the details of her day off tomorrow. I have just returned from the Spa where I had a Purifying Facial and a Coffee Scrub! Wow, this is the grand treatment.

To catch up on our exciting news from last night. I had arrived at the hotel, turned in my laundry, booked for the Red Bridge Cooking School and went to have a Vietnamese coffee (an aluminum top with the grounds through which you pour the hot water...I had to ask what to do with the top when I was ready to drink the coffee) and catch up on my journal. It is still not finished because through the downpour appeared two familiar faces hooded in raincapes. Sandy and Glenda Kirk had managed to connect with us.....what a wonderful surprise. They came to dinner with us and caught up with Dan and Robin, Sharon and Eleanor, Michael and Paddy and I. They had waited for three days in the rain at Hoi An to see us as they regreted that they didn't get to meet Group 1 (on the train coming south while the group was flying north). Glenda and Sandy are looking healthy and to be having fun with their trip. It was difficult to say goodbye.

Chau took a group out this morning for a tour. Paddy will give details. Some of us had to switch rooms as the power went out on the third floor.

I went to the Old Town to search for the location of the cooking school. On the way I found a silk jacket ready-made just for me! Later on it was indicated to me by a local, by looking at my map and the asterik on it, that the school was down there where the water was flooding the street. In fact, boats were coming up the street from the river....I haven't seen flooding like we saw yesterday (we waded and pushed bikes through two causeways with water to the knees but were unable to navigate the third one) since the Fraser River Flood of 1948! In frustration and to reward my helper I took a cyclocab back to the hotel.

Had a coffee with Robin, then she went to her fitting (Paddy will give details) and I had a bowl of Pho Bo.

I tried again and this time found the school (Doug and Gala had gone for the 8 am session, too early for me). The 2 pm class was full with 16 students (from England, Scotland, France, Norway, Switzerland, Canada, Washington DC and Qatar) and three leaders. We went first down to the market to check spices, knives and other utensils, to identify foods that we had eaten or read about. We tried a locust fruit but the guide thought it was sour....we liked it. Because of the flooding we couldn't go by boat (docks underwater) to the Red Bridge Cooking School so we went through the countryside by van back to the river and the school.

The cooking session was fun but fast!  The chef, who had the jokes of a TV chef, would demonstrate, then we would cook on gas burners, then arrange our product with flair, then eat it. We made rice paper to use for the spring rolls we made; we made a Hoi An pancake which we wrapped in rice paper; we made a hot pot of eggplant, tomato and herbs. While the hot pot cooked we practised making a cucumber fan and a tomato rose. (Unfortunately my camera battery expired on me; I hadn't been able to charge my other one as the power was off during the morning). I hope Doug and Gala will be able to post some pics. We went into the eating area to continue our meal of green papaya salad, our hot pot, rice and steamed mackeral. Then it became clear why we were working at such a feverish pace....the flood was coming up on the grounds of the school and in fact had reached the steps! The quickly hailed vans took us back to our hotels.

Then came the finale to my day....the facial and coffee scrub. What a way to end a so-called "rest day".
written by Yvonne

Quy Nhon to Quang Ngai

Today looked promising with slightly overcast skies & a breeze as we headed out of Quy Nhon i by van to begin our rural route from a small fishing village some 30 Km from the city. Showers were just starting so ponchoes & jackets went on.  As always the locals, especially the delightful children, were excited by our presence and kept us busy responding to their constant greetings.  The paved path/highway ran immediately in front of private homes, almost all of which had lakes of muddy water up to the porch or doorstep from last nights rain and the present downpour.  The condition of the path quickly deteriorated to an ongoing series of large and larger water-filled potholes which had to be very carefully negotiated which we all managed save for Paul who delighted the locals by taking a brief but complete mud bath. In the short intervals between potholes we had rice paddies, shrimp farms, duck farms and salt farms on either side, all dotted with white cattle egrets tip-toeing through the water and numerous butterflies fluttering among the bushes.  This flat cycling eventually progressed to first one and then a second climb at a 10% grade through a solid rock-walled hillside. Between the two passes we descended down to another remote fishing village right on the mist-covered ocean where raging brown waves pounded the beach, and just past that area we encountered our first road wash-out.  Not serious though as the van drivers and mechanics were waiting to carry the bikes over the mud & water and send us on our way up the next pass.  Rain continued on & off for remainder of the day and following another plentiful lunch of seafood, rice, veggies & spicy meat washed down with beer or soda we boarded the bus to weave our way further north through the fascinating Vietnamese traffic ballet of honking, weaving, dodging and swerving vehicles.  There are alot of miles to cover despite the relatively small size of the country so considerable van/snooze time is needed.  This is a fabulous journey into the Vietnamese culture and life and we never cease to be amazed by the consistently energetic positive and cheery attitude we see in everyone we meet.  Tomorrow, weather permitting we will cycle and drive toward Hoi An.   


Sharon Warren 

Quang Ngai to Hoi An

Boots on bare feet in the Peace Park at the memorial site of the Son My massacre March 16, 1968.  Now, aspiring to peace with every step.

Mr Do Ky's house, restored after the Son My massacre.  Haunting photos in the memorial showed GIs setting fire to the houses and destroying crops, point-blank shootings with oversized weapons, piles of bodies.  Relics included an umbrella skeleton, a bracelet, a glazed terracotta jar of rice, small round-bellied jars of fish sauce, a plastic crab toy, and a 500kg bomb dropped after the massacre to destroy evidence of the crime.

Bed in restored house of Mr Do Ky, with bamboo mattress and wooden pillow.

The first of several flooded sections we crossed this morning.

Siblings

Local helmets

Flood season

Narrow backroad riding

People watching people watching people.

Vietnamese tandem.  Often both pedal together.

Always the conical hat

Smoke break

Every town has a shop selling formal wear.

Day off in Nha Trang

We are in Nha Trang, a beautiful seaside city bustling with activity. Our "day off" has been packed starting with a boat trip to Mieu Island. First stop, a local market. Most merchants display their wares artfully on the ground and hunker behind waiting for customers. We sample sweet rice cakes served in tiny bowls, a breakfast staple. We stroll a meandering path through the settlement and get a glimpse into the houses, many have store fronts on the street and small living quarters behind. I am struck by hơw lucky we Canadians are, living in opulence by comparison.

After a visit to the aquarium, we continue on the boat to Mue Island. There ís an esthetician on board offering pedicures, manicures and massages and she is not going to take no for an answer.  She strong-armed Sharon into having her whiskers removed.  On landing at Mue Island, we enjoy an hour in the water, snorkeling near the coral reef.  The water is warm although a little murky.  Eleanor emerges from the water looking a little bemused.  Her right hand has swollen to twice the size of her left.  Diagnosis - jelly fish sting. Anyone else might have turned this into a medical emergency but Eleanor reacted with her usual aplomb and carried on unphased.

Continue on the boat to Se Tre Island for a light lunch of shrimp, squid, oysters, mackerel, morning glory (green vegetable), eggplant, hot pot (beef stew) finished off with pho (soup) lightly flavored with lime and chilies.  We are not going to lose weight on this trip.

After a visit to the Oceanographic Institute, what is left of our "day off" is filled with trips to the market, and massages at the hotel.  Michael reported that his masseuse was an expert although she got "closer to him" than is usual or necessary.  After she walked all over his back, she offered other services which he claims he declined.

A few of us finished off the evening at Louisiane, a trendy looking club with live music.  After studying the menu, we all admitted to a secret craving for pizza and beer.  We were lured onto the dance floor by a lively rendition of La Bamba and a precocious six year old boogied with us.  A great end to the "day off".

Paddy Miller

Saturday, November 13 Nha Trang to Quy Nhon

Another bright and early departure at 7:30 am. On the buses for 2 plus hours north to Song Cau to begin cycling. Passed many shrimp farms on land, various fish aquaculture operations, in pens in protected bays, lush green rice fields and dense jungle-like vegetation in the hills. We passed areas where water hoses were pouring water aimed off the road. The water came from higher in the hills and was available to anyone to wash their vehicles or to cool the engines as necessary. One double-decker load of pigs had the hoses trained on its precious cargo, cooling the pigs on their way to market.

We marveled and watched in disbelief at the way the drivers passed slower vehicles on curves and hills, oblivious to approaching traffic or not knowing if traffic was just around the corner.

As we approached Song Cau we saw many fishing boats in the bay (not unusual on this coast) and also several freighters. These ships were bringing refined petroleum products from the refinery further north to this bay where distribution facilities are located. During the "American War" this bay was also used as the Seagoing Ho Chi Minh Trail. Boats would bring munitions and supplies here during typhoons for the northern troops.

We unloaded the bikes and headed north on a minor inland road for an intended 17 km ride to Tuy Hoa for lunch. Seven kilometres of beautiful riding later found us at a landslide impossible to get through and turning back to where we had just left from. We drove to Tuy Hoa for lunch, then for another hour and a half to position ourselves 45 km south of Qui Nhon and the ride to our hotel. The drive to this point was quite exciting with many potholes and much jockeying for the lead with trucks, vans, and scooters cutting in and around the potholes, changing lead, and getting nowhere any faster.

Unloading the bikes provided us with a chance to use the facilities nature provided. Doug attempted to pee in a lady's garden, was spotted and chased away by the owner, half his size, but very, very vocal and menacing.

The 45 km ride to Quy Nhon was another great session in the saddle with good roads, cooler temperatures and not too much for headwinds. We rode up one fairly good hill, the downhill part of which was our reward and arrived at the hotel as darkness caught us.

Dinner was another delicious affair with much fun being garnered from the drink menu. I believe that the order of the drinks went from " Margarita" (Paddy), "PS I Love You" (Eleanor), to "Tie Me Up" (Nancy), "Multi Orgasm" (Brendan.......it takes a strong man, confident of his riding abilities, to order a drink by that name) and finally to "Relaxed" (Sharon).

Enough for Day 6.  from Ross

Phan Thiet to Nha Trang Thursday, November 11 2010

Although we are on vacation and cycle touring in Vietnam, I thought about remembrance day as celebrated in Canada and especially about my deceased father who was overseas as a soldier in WW2. 

On day 4 of our cycling tour, most of us were up by 5:30 am and on the beautiful beach at the Saigon Suoi Nhum Resort Hotel by 6:00 am to see the sunrise and take photos of the white flour sand beach, the islands in the distance, the Vietnamese boys playing soccer on the beach, and a group of fishermen bringing in their catch (squid, crab and other fish) in a Vietnamese "round" boat. Sunny skies greeted us and we could already feel the heat and humidity that would accompany us on our cycle this morning.

The 6:30 am breakfast was another of many excellent breakfasts we are enjoying in Vietnam: fruit, including the dragon fruit we saw growing in plantations yesterday, veggies, omelette, toast, bacon, ham. And even the coffee was decent, according to Ross. 

Our guide, Chau, and his assistants were ready for us to leave the hotel at 7:30 am. We loaded up our bags and drove north along beautiful sand beaches. Our drivers, Dung and Duc, are great drivers, but typical of Vietnamese drivers; they drive with one hand on the wheel and one hand very close to the horn. It's ok to use the horn here to alert other drivers that you are near and want to pass them. It does not matter if other vehicles and motor scooters are both coming towards you at the same time or the curve in the road is totally blind, you pass anyway. The larger vehicles always take the right of way. There are very few stop signs that we have seen; cars, trucks, scooters, bicycles and pedestrians, big and small, thread their way across each others path without any issues that we have seen. 

We drive till about 10:00 am through rural areas and a number of drab and dusty looking towns and villages. There are many small shops each occupying a small open building and part of the sidewalk and/or street.  We stopped several times while driving in the van. First stop was in Phan Thiet to look at several hundred fishing boats moored in the Caty River. We also stopped at Cham Tower, a Hindu Temple built circa 700 BC where only the females in our group touched the small symbolic phallic pillar in the temple. The pillar is reputed to improve fertility. Now Sharon, Paddy, Eleanor, Nancy, Dawn, Yvonne, Robin and Gala are worried about going home pregnant from this trip! The next stop was at the Xuan Huong Fish Sauce plant where a family operated business makes fish sauce using very simple technology from anchovies, sea salt and water. Anchovies are harvested from the sea in June each year and placed in huge cauldrons along with sea salt and water for a year before the fish sauce is ready to be bottled. Our last stop before we begin cycling is in the Mui Ne shrimp fishing village where we see many boats in the harbour and fishermen with their family members readying the shrimp for market. 

We start cycling about 10:00 am, with Doug and Gala leading at first, under mostly sunny skies and follow the coast northwards. There are numerous photo opportunities as we cycle across rural areas with several rolling hills which provided fabulous vistas of long beaches and many different types of farms. At kilometre 17, on top of the biggest hill, our Vietnamese van driver Dung is there to meet us with cold water, towelettes (to wipe the sweat) cookies, small bananas and oranges. We are all happy to see Dung since our water bottles are mostly empty. As we continue cycling some of us (Les, Bernie, Paul and others) stop to view Vietnamese farmers/families drying peanut shells and corn. It's mostly sunny till about 11:00 am when the clouds start to move in. About 11:30 rain was in the air and we wished for a small shower to cool us off. Unfortunately that did not happen.

As we cycle, we see that most Vietnamese people live in the open air in small open hovels/homes with a shaded shelter out front. We also see many Vietnamese women walking or riding bicycles dressed in their traditional white dresses/pant suits and pointed hats. Oxen and carts, used for moving people and goods, are frequently seen. Everywhere we go, Vietnamese people are courteous and friendly. I have not noticed any display of anger or hostility towards us or even amongst the Vietnamese people; it must be a Vietnamese trait.

After 38 kilometres and climbing/descending several rolling hills, we are rewarded with a long downward ride, that happens much too quickly, into the town of Luong Son where another feast awaits us for lunch. We arrive at the Nhu Ngoc restaurant/bar where Hung, the Vietnamese truck driver, and Tien, his assistant, take our bikes and place them in the truck. The two van drivers, Dung and Duc, have cold water for us again. We enjoy this royal treatment. 

Mike and Brendan arrive at the restaurant (it's also a Karaoke bar) first and the lunch meal is not quite ready yet. A young women, the "lady in black" takes Mike out to the dance floor; while dancing she feeds him grapes to presumably quench his thirst. He gets teased and we have a good laugh. Brendan is offered a free beer but he must chug it to the toast that several of us are practicing "Mot Hai Ba, Dyo" (translated means: 1, 2, 3, cheers).

Phuc, our mechanic and "sweep" arrive with Bernie, Dan and Robin just as lunch is served. Our lunch consists of platters of spicy shrimp, fish, bread, rice, vegetables, ox tail soup, hot pot (soup with meat & local vegetables); Twas awesome.

By 13:30, we are sitting in the two air conditioned Mercedes vans driving north along the South China Sea. The Vietnamese maps call it the "Vietnamese Sea". In van 1, we engage Chau, our Vietnamese tour guide with many questions on what we see as we drive by beautiful beaches, small villages and towns, the Thuong Sun mountains surrounded by mist at times, many brown cows/bulls tethered and grazing on the shoulder of the roads, military air fields, former Russian/American military bases, fields of grapes, black sesame, salt (from ocean water) and rice. We learn from Chau about the things we see and discuss other topics.

According to Chau, in the rural areas there are no garbage dumps or garbage collection; that is why we see lots of garbage everywhere, next to homes & restaurants, in the towns and villages, adjacent to factories, on farms and elsewhere. We noticed that some people make an effort to keep their homes and land clean.

I was surprised that we have not seen very many dogs after being warned about rabid dogs in Vietnam. According to Chau, Vietnamese people in the central and south of the country were ordered by the military to kill their dogs during the last war; the reason was so they would not bark when soldiers moved around secretly at night.  

It rained for a few hours in the afternoon as we drove northward to Nha Trang city. During the van ride, we learned that public washrooms are rare in Vietnam. It took a long time to find one next to a gas station. Paddy had to go so badly, she mistakenly ended up in the "men's"; of course it was a "squat toilet".

We arrive at the Asla Paradise Hotel at 17:30. There is a laundromat one half block from the hotel where have our dirty clothes cleaned for about $1.00 per person.

Dinner is at a popular Vietnamese BBQ restaurant where we cook our own beef, squid, shrimp, tofu, and vegetables. Paddy, Michael and Bernie share the charcoal BBQ located on the table in front of our eyes. Yes there are flames and smoke and the food is spicy. A couple of San Miguel (640 mm) beers are needed by most of us to quench our thirst as we enjoy this special Vietnamese meal.

Recorded by Bernie Phillion

An addition to Nov. 10 post

There is one incident that I should have shared. In the evening of the 10th some of us went down to the beach to soothe our aching feet in the cool water. As Paddy and I walked back up the bath to our room a security guard went rushing through us without a word, then ran back carrying a shovel. We had continued walking to the guard station, then saw what the excitement was about. The man was smashing down on a red and black banded snake until it lay dead. Whew! The interesting part is that the next morning Bernie, upon hearing our story, said "Is that the snake I saw?" I think we can do without any more of that kind of excitement.
from Yvonne....more updates by others coming soon